This is Colorado and there a few things more magical than being in the city with huge, fluffy snowflakes swirling all around you. It was against this wondrous backdrop that I had the opportunity to spend some time with Kristin, the ice cream genius behind the Little Man Ice Cream Shop, housed in Denver's most distinctive building, learning how to make ice cream.
I remember watching the Little Man's building go up. In a former life, I was a product rep and called on the business next door a couple of times a week. From a humble hole in the ground arose a large, round galvanized milk can, towering over the neighboring buildings. People were fascinated by it and were constantly stopping to talk to the crew, leading them to erect a sign stating that they were deaf and mute and were unable to field any more questions.
When the milk can finally opened for business on July th, 2008, it quickly became the neighborhood hangout. Classic porch gliders and soda fountain seating gave the place a homey, nostalgic feel that just made people want to hang out, enjoying their ice cream cones and nodding along to Elvis tunes on the loudspeaker, while their children played on the slide installed behind the building.
But the cool atmosphere isn't the only story here. Little Man excels on many levels - beginning with their ice cream, gelato and sorbets. On any given trip there, you might encounter Mexican Chocolate, Root Beer or Apple Caramel Pie Ice Cream; Grapefruit or Lemon Sorbet; and Fig or Blueberry Cinnamon Gelato.
And while the unique flavors sound like they might be over the top, they work beautifully - with crisp, clean flavors. Kristin makes all of the the luscious flavors in a kitchen just up the street, where I joined her for a lesson in the finer points of ice cream production.
On the day of my visit, Kristin was making chocolate ice cream. Using a base of 14% butterfat and egg yolks, she adds three kinds of chocolate for a surprising depth of flavor and color, using freshly ground spices and cocoa powders sourced from the local Savory Spice Shop.
As the freezer worked it's magic, Kristin explained that the difference between commercial and artisanal ice creams, other than the ingredients, is the air that is incorporated during the freezing process. Some grocery store ice cream contains as much as 100% air (equal parts air and good stuff!). Artisanal ice creams contain around 25%.
I asked what made gelato and ice cream different. "In Italy, by law, gelato must contain no added air. Unfortunately, we don't have the same restrictions", Kristin said, "but gelato has a lower butterfat content, which gives it a different mouth feel."
After the ice cream comes out of the freezer, it is spooned into buckets and put into a hardening freezer (-40 degrees) for 2 days, then allowed to "warm up" to zero degrees, before being scooped into your cone.
And lest you think that winter in Denver doesn't lend itself to ice cream, the Little Man has other plans. In addition to their remarkable flavors of ice cream and gelato, they are whiling away the cooler days serving gourmet soup and grilled cheese.
The other truly remarkable thing about the Little Man is their "Scoop for Scoop" program. Little Man's owner, Paul Tamburello, donates a scoop of rice to developing countries for every scoop of ice cream sold - now well over 123,000 scoops. What's more, instead of simply sending a check, Paul delivers the rice himself. With this amazing show of hands-on giving, Paul is truly walking the walk.
On a side note, the Little Man has an annual Christmas Tree sale starting soon. For a throwback to A Christmas Story, stop by some December evening. Choosing a tree in their cozy courtyard dotted with cafe lights and warmed by patio heaters, while eating an ice cream cone in the snow is soooo much more fun than picking up your tree at the grocery store.
Denver's Little Man Ice Cream is an experience to be had. Particularly if you can make it while it's snowing.
2620 16th Street, Denver, CO 80211
303-455-3811
